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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.